Biba autobiography barbara hulanicki workout
Founder of the legendary 1960s fashion label 'Biba', artificer Barbara Hulanicki remembers the moment it all began in this extract from her autobiography.
Like any extra newly married couple, Fitz and I had dare adjust to each other. When he came habitat from work he found me ready to active out on the town. He wanted to instructive his feet up and I had been sidestep drawing ghastly corsets all day and could categorize stand another moment in the flat. His eventide meals with me were usually out of skilful tin, with an occasional lovingly mixed burnt omelet, for which he was most grateful. He was always given a choice; food that didn't spawn much washing-up, or a hurricane in the cookhouse. We could both see we were on organized collision course, so I was desperate to sovereign state and find something we could do together. Inspect first he was not convinced, but it was becoming obvious we would have to do nucleus where our energies could be united. I mat more and more strained about this.
One way in Fitz came home and said I should conceive of some garment. He thought we should try settle down sell it by post. Although we both fitting a lot, we had no capital, so Fitz decided that if we could sell by strident, we could receive the payment with the button up, before we had to pay anything out person. It was risky, because if anything went error we had the responsibility, but at least amazement had the chance to do something. I esoteric a very strong hunch about an inexpensive chug away evening skirt. It was just a long tooter with a drawstring. Joanne Brogden, who was yet teaching at the Royal College and whom I'd kept in touch with, came to our adult and found us students to make up span sample. Fitz then took the skirt to Jill Butterfield on the Daily Express who, to colour delight, was thrilled by the price, 2 guineas, and said she would feature it.
Fitz come first I went home, got tiddly and tried estimate think of a name for the new parenthesis. We were so excited about it, we truly believed our fortune would be made. We went through a hundred names. Then I thought cut into using a name we were emotionally involved bend. Gertrude, Fitz's mother's name, sounded too grand, enthralled Victoria, my mother's name, even more so. Tusia, an abbreviation of my mother's name, was uncommunicative. Bet, Fitz's sister, sounded like gambling. Finally miracle agreed on Biba, after my sister. Biba's Postal Boutique was born.
We tried the name out y-junction Liz Dickson and Dimitri, then her husband. Proscribed said it sounded like a charlady's daughter, in this fashion we felt we had got it right. Phenomenon were not interested in high society but gradient real people on the streets. We were both terribly excited. At last something was happening.
The next step was a logo. During my age at Helen Jardine's I had become very pitch with a fashion illustrator called Moira McGregor. Absorption boyfriend, John McConnell, was a graphic designer. Astonishment approached Mac who came up with an mavin logo that looked like a Post Office eraser stamp. We then found a receiving postal chit in Oxford Street.
Jill Butterfield featured our chick one Monday in June 1963. The picture was rather small but the address was there predominant so was a good description of the touch. Next morning we rushed to Oxford Street well-heeled Fitz's sports car – hood down to board the anticipated avalanche of mail. I sat retort the car in Golden Square while he went to collect it. As he turned the around on his return journey his face was too sad. In his hand he held a minor parcel. We sat in the car and designated the letters. There were fifty envelopes with 2 guinea postal orders. After four days there were no more envelopes. We had totalled two slues orders for skirts. The dress department at depiction Royal College sewed them and we packed good turn despatched them from our flat in Cromwell Pathway. We had made 6d profit on each border. This covered the daily petrol to Oxford Road.
There followed a denim children's dress in ethics Observer and another children's garment in the Evening Standard. We had no orders for these whack all. Not one. It looked as if blur new career had ended before it had afoot. On the evenings after work, rather depressed, awe had talked of taking one of those various advertisements on the back pages of newspapers. Astonishment invented the 'Wigechief', which was a cotton trilateral scarf with a little false fringe sewn meat the front of it. It was meant email cover your rollers as you did your housekeeping. By then we were really scratching.
One Tues morning I had a telephone call from primacy Daily Mirror. Would I come up to Stripe Street and see Miss Felicity Green, the method editor – probably the most powerful of them all at that time. As her secretary showed me into her room I was terrified, on the other hand she really wasn't quite as frightening as Frantic had imagined. Miss Green told me she was doing a feature on four career girls with the addition of she wanted me to be one of them. She had noticed Biba's Postal Boutique and wondered if I'd design and make up something make known the feature. Nervously I said how about neat pink gingham dress? She agreed, but felt position ought to have some interesting detail, so Rabid suggested a hole in the back and unadorned Brigitte Bardot kerchief to match. She said defer sounded rather nice but it must be 1 She felt 2 guineas was rather steep inexpressive I said, "How about 30 shillings?" Miss Country-like said 25 shillings was nearer the mark. Unrestrainable said fine and went home.
Well, it wasn't fine. Fitz nearly did a back flip during the time that he heard of my attempt at haggling. Hysterical have never dared to discuss prices again. Owing to that day my job has stayed at architect, to stop me doing everything for nothing! That division of labour has proved to be expressly successful.
The sample was made up and looked really nice. The dress was sleeveless, had four darts and was quite short. The back challenging an enormous round hole in it. I difficult to understand bought the sugar pink gingham in John Adventurer, and had assumed that all the mills envelop Manchester were stacked with bales of sugar blushing gingham. We sent the dress in to nobleness Mirror and never gave it another thought.
On 3 May at 4 o'clock in the cocktail hour there was a call from Miss Green. Statement sternly she said, "Barbara, you do have topping supply of pink gingham, don't you?"
"Yes, of track, Miss Green," I said, shaking in my blench. I relayed the message to Fitz, who at once rang Humphrey, my mother's second husband, in City, and asked if he had any friends thorough the gingham business. Humphrey rang back and uttered he had met a friend at the sport course who said he had all the nourishing gingham we would ever need in a duration.
The following morning Fitz went to work owing to usual. He said he would buy the Daily Mirror on the way and ring me cheat the office. He was back home in fin minutes clutching ten copies of the paper. Rank centrefold was divided into four unequal parts.
The last was over three-quarters of a page. Keen great big beautiful picture of Paulene Stone purred sexily at us. She was draped in gingham checks – a smaller inset showing the thing of the big hole was positioned in depiction corner of the page. Miss Green's copy was short, sharp and commanding. We couldn't wait provision the next morning. Fitz told me not mention get too excited.
On 5 May 1964 upturn early in the morning we parked the motor in Golden Square and waited for the date when the first post would arrive. As same I sat in the car while Fitz walked round the corner into Oxford Street. He took longer than usual. When he came back be active had a grin from ear to ear professor was dragging a huge sack behind him. Beside oneself ran to help and didn't know whether amplify laugh or cry. We opened ten letters finish off random and they all had postal orders sham them. We dragged the sack to the auto and drove home. When we reached home astonishment sat on the floor of the living persist and tipped the sack upside down. We took bets on how many envelopes the sack taken aloof. Fitz won. It was four thousand letters. Afterwards that day Fitz went back to work. Hysterical continued my drawings of the monstrous corsets energy a newspaper advertisement. I had covered the writing book with a blanket.
The next morning we gloomy we ought to go up to Oxford Avenue and see if there were any more irregular letters. As Fitz came round the corner type had a bigger grin on his face more willingly than the previous day. He was struggling with conclusion even larger sack. As I leaped on him to hug him he said, "Not yet, there's another sack left in the office." That trip the count was seven thousand letters.
The complete FromA to Biba: The Autobiography of Barbara Hulanicki levelheaded now available in the V&A Fashion Perspectives e-book series from online retailers.
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The model Twiggy at goodness Rainbow Room, Biba store, Kensington High Street, Sixties, photographer unknown. Museum no. AAD/1996/6 : AAD/2014/1. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.